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August 12, 2017 18:05

How to make the water warm floor with his hands - materials , calculation, installation and connection

Warm water floor are some of the most inexpensive to operate, efficient and comfortable.However, this is offset by the complexity of their installation and can not be used any apartment or room.Water flooring can not be connected to the central heating system and the use of multi-storey residential buildings above the first floor, so is the choice of the owners of their own houses and apartments on the first floor, equipped with a boiler.

Article Contents:

  • list of equipment and materials.
  • preparatory work.
  • necessary calculations and design.
  • Mounting pipes and floor connection.

Radiant floor can be

  • with concrete screed on top,
  • without ties, with aluminum plates and gaskets made of polyethylene,
  • with wooden beams.

most durable and safe floor - on a concrete screed, but it is also the most difficult to install.

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Required equipment

Key elements of warm water floor:

  • insulation,
  • waterproofing materials,
  • reinforcing mesh,
  • polypropylene or polyethylene pipes, fittin
    gs and fasteners to them, polypropylene is to be reinforced with fiberglass, soas it greatly expands when heated, so often used polyethylene pipes with a smaller coefficient of expansion,
  • boiler for heating water with ball valves at the entrance,
  • circulator,
  • collector - a device for connecting the underfloor heating pipes to the main pipe, the flow heatedwater from the boiler, is a wide metal tube with multiple outputs, its membership also includes valves, vent, drain and other emergency floor heating system settings.

number of consumables for the installation of underfloor heating depends on the area of ​​the room and the scheme of laying pipes.The diameter of the tubes is also determined by its length, a possible floor thickness and typically 16-20 mm.Pipes must withstand high pressure (up to 10 bar) and temperatures up to 95 degrees.More precisely, the number of components are calculated after the drafting of a warm floor.

warm floor

Collector shall be at least two - the hot and cooled water intake.reservoir Location is better to think in advance and provide a special box in the wall beneath it, which then can be hidden behind the panel.Its thickness is typically 12 cm, and the size depends on the collector.Box should be located at some distance from the floor, as you need a place to bend the pipes to connect them to the collector.

also the location of the reservoir above the level of the floor heating is important for its correct operation and the possibility of divert air from the system.The location of the box is chosen so that its distance to all circuits was about the same, while the number of openings in the main walls for the passage of pipes - is minimal.If the collector box in the system more than one, then the primary main pipe installed splitter with subsequent narrowing adapters.

The main characteristic of the boiler - its capacity, which can be calculated according to the formulas described here.It must be chosen with some margin (about 15%), to provide sufficient floor heating at critical temperatures.The inlet and outlet of the boiler must be shut-off valves are installed, with which the boiler can be disabled without draining water from it.The pump provides a continuous circulation of water in the system.Many boilers are already equipped with built-in pump, which is enough to operate the 120-150 square meters.m of floor heating.For larger areas require an additional pump, which is installed in the outermost collector box of the boiler.



Warm water floor may only be laid on a perfectly level surface, it is a necessary condition for a good flow of water.The first stage is dismantled the old flooring, removed the old screed, bitumen and other residues of waterproofing.A new layer of screed is poured so that the differences in height the floor after drying it does not exceed one centimeter.

followed by the waterproofing layer, for example, a special plastic film.Along the perimeter of the room damper mounted tape.This tape compensates for slight expansion inherent in the material is heated.Next, fit the insulation to prevent heat loss through the floor.Its type and thickness depends on several parameters: the thickness of the slabs, the location of the room is insulated, type of floor covering.

  • For underfloor heating, which is used only as an auxiliary heating means.Suffice penofol layer - polyethylene foam with foil to reflect heat the substrate.
  • If a room where the floor heating, there are other heated rooms it is possible to use polystyrene foam thickness of 2-5 mm or equivalent insulation.
  • For rooms, located on the first floor or above unheated rooms need more substantial warming in the form of a layer of expanded clay (on the screed with expanded clay wrote) and the foam thickness of 5-10 cm.

On a layer of insulation is placed specialreinforcing mesh to reinforce screed which will be poured between the pipes.

calculations and project

Before laying the pipes is necessary to chart their location, for each room - your own.To do this, you must specify the area of ​​the room, its configuration, the material of walls and floors, the type of insulation, as well as the capacity of the boiler and the pump and the diameter of the pipe.All these parameters affect the way some of the pipe length to be used for comfort heating of the room, and what is the distance between the coils.

Too short length of pipe will cause that some areas will stay cold floor and is too large to ensure that the water is difficult to circulate in the system.Paul also should not be too hot, the optimal temperature on its surface - 30 degrees.When designing the pipework, it is necessary to take into account the placement of furniture in the future, as the areas under large objects - bed or wardrobe - you can not heat.

tent - scheme

There are two ways of laying pipes floor heating in the room - snake and spiral.When placing the tubes in a spiral, they are stacked with twice the distance between the coils to the center of the room, and then twisted in the opposite direction, settling in abandoned spaces.The first method allows for better heat the room with cold outer walls, the second is more suitable for rooms without external walls, for example, the bathroom, or if the external walls are insulated with high quality.

Stacking spiral more economical from the point of view of hydraulics.Flowing through the pipes, the water gradually gives up its heat and cools down, so it is advisable to have the first turns of the tube with the hottest water closer to the outer walls.To conserve heat, you need to additionally be insulated section of the pipe extending from the reservoir to the outer wall.Throughout the pipe, laid in the screed must be solid, without joints, so it is important the exact calculation of the route.

optimally laid pipe with the distance between them is about 30 cm, reducing it to 15 cm from the exterior walls or in areas of large heat losses.The pipes must not come close to the walls, the gap to 8-10 cm should be maintained at all times.The tube length is greater, the greater the flow resistance therein occurs.It increases with increasing length and a large number of turns.If the pipe length is more than 100 meters, it is necessary to divide it into multiple paths.

Hydraulic resistance in each one connected to the collector circuits must be identical.For different premises need independent circuits, a loggia, a balcony or terrace should be heated separately, since most of the heat will go away on their heating and the room itself will be heated enough.

When we know the exact number of circuits, it is possible to buy collector with the required number of taps.It is better to stay at variant with control valves, with which you can adjust the flow of water in each circuit and, consequently, to change the temperature of the floor to a more comfortable level.The collector must be fitted with a drain tap and vent valve.

There are also more advanced collectors with automatic temperature control, but their cost is much higher.The collector and collected according to the instruction set in the box is intended for it, together with other components - pressure sensors, temperature controllers, etc.

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Pipe installation and connection

Pre-construction can draw a marker for the path that will be laid pipe, so to sustain the required distance easier.Pipes are laid on the prepared base according to plan, and then fastened to the floor by special clamps with screws.You can attach the pipe and to the reinforcing grid with plastic ties.We should not delay the tie too, it is better to leave it free.

pipes do not need to spin out of the bay in advance.Unwinding they should gradually as stacking, to avoid kinks and deformations.Flex tube should be careful not to have any creases and cracks that have been damaged pipe laid in the floor heating is no longer possible.Optimum Bending Radius - 5 diameters.

ends of the pipes, which are fed to the manifold, thermal insulating foam polyethylene.Connect them to the collector can be using evrokonusnoy system or compression fitting.

After the pipe laid and connected, the collector is configured, it is necessary to conduct a test run of the system.The pipe is supplied with water under pressure of 5-6 bar at night.It is noted there are no new leak somewhere, whether expanded tube over valid values.If everything is in order, do not drain the water, pour the concrete floor.Under the tile required screed 3-5 cm thick, since this thickness warms better.

For laminate and linoleum enough thinner screed, it can be reinforced with another grid, located on top of floor heating.Under the laminate installation of warm water floor not put a layer of insulation.It should dry 4-5 weeks, depending on the level of humidity.Only after that can be laid floor covering.

Warm water floor warming up for a long time, but also cools down slowly, so you should include it in advance, before the onset of cold weather.