Repair floor apartment with his hands in stages

Upgrading or replacing old, worn-out floor in the apartment - this is one of the most labor-intensive operations in the overall process of repair.Just imagine all the magnitude and cost of the forthcoming, many homeowners often refuse to repair floors, limited change of decorative coating on them.But time takes its toll and sooner or later there comes a moment when the delay such work becomes impossible.

In this case, it is not necessary immediately to look for a team of masters - the more so that it is often possible to meet the explicit "hacks" in this service sector.As a result, all may result in a totally unnecessary waste of time, nerves and money at low-quality result.Why not try to do this yourself?If the host has certain skills in the civil works, and if the spending floor repairs in the apartment with his hands in stages, in compliance with the recommended process rules, then everything should work!

Stages of repair, of course, depend on the type of floors, their initial state, the destination premises in which work is underway, the type of finish.some of the most common options will be discussed in this publication.

initial stage - to determine the scope of work

Once the landlord thought about sex repair, then most likely, the fact is, the motives, of course, if it is not cosmeticreplacement cover for the next whim wife.So, you first need to identify and articulate the problem - will depend on the full extent of the further preparations and repair work.

speech in this publication is a city apartment, but in the vast majority of high-rise buildings each floor has a foundation in the form of reinforced concrete slabs.But the further construction can already vary significantly.The floor can be arranged on joists, fixed to the ground or be paved directly on the concrete floor.

• wooden floor on joists their defects usually begins to show a scratch, coating instability - floorboards "play" under your feet odor of rot, the formation and gradual expansion slots.Even worse, when suddenly one of the planks crack or a fragment falls down.

• old screed on which to lay a coating of "old age" can also start surprises, especially if there was once flooded with low quality.So, too, it is possible the emergence of obvious creaks and rustling of sand or small pebbles, "buhtenie" ties, the emergence promyatyh plots surface roughness violation of the topcoat, and sometimes - and the apparent instability of a large fragment.

In any case, the presence of obvious defects, remove the old paint.

Removing the old coating

• from the room need to move all the furniture, completely freeing them for future work.If the repairs are not carried out in the entire apartment at once, and from room to room, you will need to provide protection against the spread of dust, for example, the input of the veil curtain of thick polyethylene film or frequently moistens the fabric, and the crack under the door closing roll of wet rags.However, the full effectiveness of this method - is highly questionable, and best of all the same - to provide for resettlement of members of the family at the time of conduct repairs.However, the dust barrier is necessary in any case.
• Further, removed the old floor.Do this carefully so as not to damage the lower part of the walls to which they are attached.If the plinth to be used hereinafter, they are numbered according to location and temporarily removed.

If anyone before this thing did not face, it may be recalled - a plinth mounted to the wall, not the floor, that is, you need to properly direct leverage.It will be easier if fixed on a plinth screws or special brackets.

next step - actually, the removal of the old coating.There are several options:

A. If the floor is laid out with some kind of web material, it to hook on one side and try to gently roll up into a roll - so it will be easier to bear.In the event that the coating (eg linoleum or carpet) once stacked without glue directly on the concrete floor, this would be easy.You can pre-order to facilitate actions, make a sharp knife construction parallel incisions, thus dividing the whole body into several narrow strips.

But often there are situations in which the old waste material together with layers of exfoliated ties.Then it is necessary to remove it in fragments and immediately make the room with pieces of concrete to the construction waste does not interfere with further work.

happens that when something qualitatively glued linoleum when removing itself begins to delaminate, leaving dried-screed layers.In this case it is necessary to work with a scraper (spatula), warming up these areas with the help of building dryer or wetting old adhesive layer detergent solution for floors.

B. more trouble may deliver the old "play" parquet.If he is of no value, then it dies successively removed immediately loaded into bags which endure as filling.If ever flagged flooring on bitumen mastic or adhesive on an organic basis, the removal of individual plates or whole fragments can be difficult."Recipe" is the same - a scraper, a chisel and warm with a hair dryer.

B. To remove the old tile, it's best to use the hammer, switch to the chiselling mode, with chisel-set spatula.If such a tool not available, then all carried out manually, using a hammer and chisel.

G. When removing the plank flooring the most difficult, perhaps, to pick up and separate the first floorboard.Then, when you can be free to make the lever, the work will go faster.To work needed crowbar with a long-handle lever, hammer, pliers.Nails need to try to gently remove without destroying the board, as is quite possible, this material still serve for a new deck after the repair or for the manufacture of a lag.

If the old coat fastened with screws (screws), you can try to dismantle it and use the screwdriver.

But if the wooden floor has no value is, the most convenient is by manual vertical conveyers make cuts (carefully and prudently so as not to catch the concrete base, does not damage the joists and not "run into" a nail).After such a long separation of the floorboards of their removal would be a simple task.

Should I remove all wooden flooring floor if obvious defects were observed only in some areas, but not in the plans should be replaced with a different type of surface finish?Of course, you can only restrict partial repair - replacing worn or deteriorated parts.However, experts in one voice are advised to - remove everything completely.There is no guarantee that if the process of dilapidation appeared in a floor area, it does not show itself in the other a year later, and even earlier.It will be cheaper to refurbish and re-foundation perestelit floor, even with the use of old material, going back to this repair again after some short period.

An audit base

Once the flooring is removed, you must carefully examine the ground.

• If left on the floor joists, and is scheduled to re-plank wooden flooring, you should carefully check the condition of the bearing elements and the supports on which they are installed.Bars lag should not have expansion portions rotting, defeat by a fungus - such parts must be replaced.Each lag check the load - it should not hang out, bend, creak, etc.If necessary, renew the lining that hold the guide at the correct height.

recommended following the inspection and repair process all log wood antiseptic composition - this will prevent it from biodegradation.

If the condition is not serious lag, after a thorough cleaning in the spaces between them will be to lay a new cover.Perhaps this is fine most of the old floorboards.After this stop bulkhead floor creak and acquire the necessary stability.If required, it can be placed between the joists insulating material, which also will assume the role shumoizolyatora.

However, on the old wooden floor often lags themselves - quite worn out, and their repair is not possible or does not guarantee longevity.In this case, they should be dismantled in order to subsequently set new ones.When removing the lag should remember that they can be sufficiently firmly attached to the base substrate.We need to show the accuracy and diligence in order to prevent the destruction of a strong concrete base and does not add yourself unnecessary worries for her recovery.

After removing the lag is carried out as much as possible a thorough cleaning of the subfloor to be able to move on to further stages.

In the case where after the removal of the old topcoat beneath it offers concrete screed, its carefully examined.We need to believe that the concrete is strong in itself, and repair of such a surface - optional.

Ties necessary to tap - it will help her peel vyvit areas to be removed to a "healthy" grounds.Checking for the presence of a surface of loose seats, those where due to violations of filling technology solution did not get strength or eroded due to moisture.Such areas also requires clear.

Do not leave large gaps on the surface - hence can continue the process of deconstruction base.Cracks and fissures em cutting breadth and depth of not less than 10 - 15 mm, for repairs.

Sometimes after removal of the unstable concrete sections opens even ugly picture, such as for example is shown in the photo.However, and this is quite amenable to repair.

After removing the defective sections and cutting cracks provide a thorough cleaning.It is best in this case to use a powerful vacuum cleaner building - other means quality and clean the surface of the cavity formed by small debris and dust - is extremely difficult.

Sometimes you have to resort to a complete dismantling all ties to the floor slab.This may be due to the extremely low quality of the coating, which is not advisable to repair, and better perezalit completely.Often, the screed in damp areas is "resting" of mold or fungus.Another option - when floors need extra insulation and soundproofing, and ceiling height and dimensions of the doorways in the apartment will not allow to raise the level of coverage (including thermal insulation layer and finishing).By the same measure resorted when you plan to do instead of thin coatings on wood floor joists.

Of course, the process of a complete dismantling of the screed using a pneumatic tool - a very tedious, noisy and dusty, but the other way is not yet invented.This requires some careful not to damage the concrete slab floors.Ties chop some pieces, which immediately shovel shovel aside and packed on bags for export.Use even small fragments as a material for filling the new solution - is not recommended, as they do not strengthen, but rather worsen the quality.

After removing the old ties carried out thorough cleaning surface - as described above.

Repair

base surface What was the floor was not planned in the future to the floor, a concrete base under it is necessary to put in order.So, are poorly embedded bare joints between the floor slabs, the gap on the perimeter walls, hollows or cavities, etc.

Such a repair is necessary, even if you plan to fill the new ties.The solution can not penetrate into these flaws, there remain air pockets that reduce the solidity of coverage and becoming the starting point for tie breaking process.This is even more important and necessary if the screed will be poured on the separation layer or waterproof film (floating screed).

All surface defects must be thoroughly cleaned, if necessary (eg interplate seams) to cut, and then remove even the finest chips and dust with a vacuum cleaner.

next step the surface thoroughly, at least - twice, Deep penetration composition, which is designed specifically for concrete.

This treatment significantly hardened surface, which is especially important for its looseness, enhance the hydrophobic quality, reduce the absorption of concrete, improve the adhesion of repair compounds.To go further work after the last deposited layer of soil is dry and completely absorbed.

can be used in a conventional cement-sand mortar as repair mortar.However, drying and gaining the necessary strength it long enough, and it is better not to spare money for repairs special formulations as cement or epoxy.

Primed surfaces flaws most densely fill the repair composition, comparing with the general floor.To do this, you can use an ordinary trowel.Some repairing Tile sold in plastic tubes, and they are more comfortable to be applied using a syringe or the construction of a special "gun".

If the defect is large in volume, in some cases, you can resort to its filling with foam.After it dries cut the excess, and then repairing Tile bring this site to the level surface.

Repair "patch" allow time for complete solidification, in accordance with their instructions, then you can trim the surface with sandpaper wrapped on the bar.