Facing wood concrete stairs

Facing wood concrete stairs seems straightforward at first glance.This process has a lot of nuances: the choice of materials to the characteristics of the surface preparation and installation of balusters.We will try to cover in the article all these moments.

Concrete stairs are very durable.They are not afraid of fire and moisture.But they do have a serious drawback unsightly appearance.And walking barefoot on concrete - a dubious pleasure.These disadvantages can be eliminated, stoned concrete tree.

How to make a concrete staircase.Example Finishing stairs tree.Example
Facing wood concrete staircase.Example Finishing concrete staircase.Example

not yet read the article how to make a staircase to the second floor?

recommend to get acquainted with the technology step by step on how to make the stairs to the second floor with their hands - a reference to the material.Also we advise to read material about the spiral staircase.

Making measurements

First we need to define the steps sizes, risers and handrailsstairs.Balusters and posts almost always have a standard size.It is necessary to take a tape measure and measure each step (the length, width and height).According to the largest size and the steps are ordered.If the necessary steps with a tooth, do not forget to take this into account.

difference between the height of a step shall be not more than 10 mm, otherwise we will have to bear the additional costs for their fitting.

Tip!If properly measure the degree is not obtained, or for any reason it is hard to do, you can just use the company's services, which are ordered steps.It certainly has a staff specialist, who will come and spend all the necessary measurements.

Name lining parts.Illustration

Select

steps need to be considered for selection of two main criteria: the thickness and material levels.

most common thickness step:

• 22 mm (these steps are cheap, but you need to spend extra time on their training);
• 35 mm (the best option for the price and labor costs in the lining);
• 45 and 55 mm (more expensive, but do not require additional alignment, usually they are faced with a ladder on a steel frame).

also very important to choose the right wood for the stairs.

Choice steps size optimal levels size Comfortable climbing

optimal choice - solid wood.

Wood	Description
Oak	this wood trim ladder perhaps more often.It is durable, strong, and is quite cheap.
Ash	Beautiful strong wood with a nice patterned surface.It should be even cheaper than oak.
Beech	durable wood with a homogeneous structure, also perfect for stairs.

not suitable for finishing steps, any timber with a soft structure: linden, pine.How would not look nice this breed, their purchase will be throwing money down the drain, because they do not serve long.

Tip!After pouring the concrete stairs to stand for a couple of months.And only then you can move on to the steps facing the tree.If you do it earlier stage may crack due to the remaining moisture in concrete.

Choose other materials

following materials (see. Table) will be needed for cladding staircase wooden stairs.

materials for lining of concrete stairs	Description	Illustration
Lac	First of all it must be durable.If there is a desire to preserve the original color of the wood, varnish should be transparent.In no event should not be selected for the exterior paint, otherwise the smell for a long time does not erode from home.	Tikkurila Unica Super
Glue for gluing steps	You can use any two-component adhesive that does not contain water.In the works shown in the photo, used glue "Homakol".	Homakoll
Glue for leveling	can use glue fixing high "Team 35" or an adhesive mixture "Ceresit CM 11", both mixtures have a high adhesion, as they are easy to use.In the works shown in the photo is used TiM 35, since it is more elastic and its price is lower than that of Ceresit CM 11.	TiM 35

We select Tools

work is carried out will need:

• level;
• drill;
• mixer;
• solution for container (bucket);
• brush primer;
• level;
• spatula;
• trowel;
• notched V-shaped spatula;
• screwdriver;
• saw for metal (for balusters cut);
• jigsaw;
• pliers (for tightening studs);
• router.

Tip!In an extreme case, you can do without the router, work on the doing of mills under the stairs can be ordered from the manufacturer.

Photo 1. Cutter

Preparations

before the preparatory work necessary to clear the level of dust and dirt using a broom or brush.Then we put on the surface of the ground CT-17.

primer Ceresit CT 17

Tip: in order to save, you can use a PVA glue.It is diluted with water in a ratio of 1: 5.

When the dry stage of the ground, go directly to the alignment of the surface.

We must not forget that the vertical part at all levels should be the same size.As described in the article works beacons were placed on a horizontal plane and the risers used as a second beacon, as the height of risers, approximately the same.Further, the adhesive is mixed (Tim - 35) and is applied between the lighthouses, and then pulled together with a spatula.After drying, the aluminum beacon should be removed.

Photo 2. Apply the adhesive

Laying stages

steps, risers, handrails, columns, balusters should be sanded sandpaper "nulevkoy" and with a soft brush lacquered wood surface.Cover should be in the room, as the street on the surface of the material may accumulate dust and dirt.

After drying grind again and cover the second time.The third layer of varnish is applied when all the design details ladder set into place.These works should be carried out in the last turn.

example of varnishing timber

advance need to bolt them together with all the stages of risers, ie, the horizontal part of the first-stage and second-stage riser.

To start glueing steps, on the leveled surface should prepare all the tools as work with the adhesive must be executed quickly on the surface of the march.steps glue made from the bottom up.

Photo 3. Install the riser

When all the preparatory work is done, start laying stages.Apply glue "Homakol" on the concrete surface of the march, the first step is put riser and fit twisted riser stage with glue.Thus it is necessary to design the riser and step in groove with the first riser.

Photo 4. riser

Photo 5. The process of lining

palm or rubber hammer rattles stage for better fixation with glue, then blow out the foam risers construction.The first riser to back with something heavy, so that during the subsequent stages of packing process, it is not moved out.

Photo 6. Facing stages

Next, in a similar way are stacked twisted together all the subsequent steps and risers.After the first march and laid all the gaps between the vertical part of the stage and riser to blow out with the help of a construction foam is required to wait for some time to dry completely.

The following marches exactly repeat the steps above.

Photo 7. Complete step

Installation pillars

first pillar is not installed on the step, and at the site, the second - on the last step.Measure out the same distance from the edge of the steps (in length) with a view to future railing, and the width of the middle stage of the desired location marked with a pencil.

Photo 8. Poles.The first is set to

site drilled hole in the column (the hole should have a diameter of 14 mm and 80-90 mm in depth) in the marked area stage drilled hole diameter of 12 mm and a depth of 80 mm.The very standard stud, is threaded M-6.Pin is screwed into the stage.Nail on the steps, around hairpin trimmed sandpaper "nulevkoy" for better adhesion of the glue and wood.

Next poured glue on a pin and it is put on a column.The glue that emerged over the column border is removed with a damp cloth or sponge.

At the top of the column drilled holes for the installation of handrails, here the most important thing to mark the holes for dowels symmetrical to each other.

Install balusters

They are fixed as well as columns, first steps are marked on the center, then to indent from the edge.Marked field to be drilled using a drill (a drill 12 mm).Before you drill holes in the steps, you need to make sure that the marking is produced correctly.

Photo 9. Marking

holes for balusters should be in the same level as previously drilled holes for poles.Before balusters will be planted on the adhesive, it is necessary to break with the help of thread or spacing mark on the entire series.It turns out the so-called "skew", which subsequently will be installed handrails, balusters Once marked, neatly cut off the excess, and they are also installed as columns.

Installing handrails

rails are attached to the poles and are marked with a pencil line on the upper and lower edges, depending on which angle will be fixed to the railing posts.Borrowed from the marked area is cut using a metal saw or jigsaw.

upper sections balusters (base) are lubricated with glue and are mounted railing.They are fixed shkantami in previously drilled holes in the pillars.

Bricks (podperilnik) cut to fit between the tops of the balusters (bases) and made installation using PVA glue.

Tip!According to building codes gap between the railing and staircases should not be less than 7.5 mm.Optimal distance - about 15 mm.

Photo 10. Installing handrails

Photo 11. Installation work

Photo 12. Work on the installation of handrails and balusters

lacquering and polishing stages

This is the final stage of work.It is no less important than the others.After all, after varnishing and polishing steps become presentable.If you want to give the tree a certain color, after the completion of the work can be applied to stain the stairs.