How to build a framework bath - a turn-based technology

At the end of last summer, my son and I have decided on their own to build a sauna in our country.There we already have a major house, besides problems with the electrification and water supply is not expected.Selecting stop on frame construction, since it is not only economical, but also built in a matter of days.

prepared the baths design 4.5 x 4.5 meters, I started to buy timber, boards, fasteners, power tools, metal roofing, insulation, OSB, hydraulic and vapor barrier.Also ordered the delivery of refractory and conventional red brick, clay refractory furnace.By the way, for a bath furnace, I designed myself.He helped me in the masonry skilled master-oven-builder, after all, want to get the maximum oven safe and effective.Scheme of the furnace, I was on a sheet in a cage, the construction process (including the construction of the house) tried to capture as much detail as possible so that my experience was useful to other people.

course together to build bathhouse is hard enough, so at some point we have helped with his son two brave employees.

Planning

For a start has been made in our projectfuture bath.We thought over location of restrooms, shower, steam room, place the furnace installation.According to the project calculated the location of the liner of water and sewer pipes, electrical cables locations.We decided to build a roof gable with a window on the front.Under the roof must remain a place for the attic, where we will store the tool or bath brooms.Total window, without taking into account the fact that under the roof, there will be two.One - as the light source in the common room (120 x 120 cm), the other two steam rooms for additional ventilation (60 x 60 cm) and washer (90 x 60 cm).Place the metal door, for greater security of the property during our absence in the country.

entry group will consist of a small wooden stairs and gable overhang, also made of wood.

foundation, it was decided to build a columnar of asbestos cement pipes.Total 24 column, with 5 of them will keep the oven.In the future, around the foundations will be laid otmostka baths and equipped livnevki, because I'm not eager to go after a pleasant procedure of crude dirty yard.

bath, we are located in one of the corners of the site.Near high fence and trees.Ideal place, I believe, for the construction.Perhaps in the near future we will build on the lawn near the Hot baths or small swimming pool.

Foundation

foundation, as I have said, under our bath columnar.First, we are not without the help of mercenaries was removed a layer of soil with shovels growing grass on it.The pad leveled and then began to do the layout.

I want to share experiences and give details of the markup process.To room was not curve and oblique, be sure to accurately vymeryat angles and diagonals.We have done so.

first corner was scheduled to sticking a peg into the ground and align it with the plumb line.For further markup useful angle and a five-meter measuring tape.The first peg strapped cord dosed with 450 mm, check the angle and thrust two pegs respectively designating the second and third corners of the bath.Similarly, pulling the cord, install the latest fourth peg.

Despite the fact that the angles we check a square, diagonal measurement showed some inconsistencies.I had to correct them, slightly shifting the poles and clearly aligning their level.

further stage of work began counting column position, the distance between which is equal to 112.5 cm. Location remarked simply shallow sticking reinforcement bars.

In the bath is a room divider, connected to the oven corner.Using a tape measure, my son and I made a measured and noted the position of the column, which will hold the partition and four columns, which later will be under the stove.

After all the calculations and layouts it is time to drill holes for the foundation pillars.Under the ground, they will leave a half meters and another 30 cm to stick out of the ground.The photo shows that we have removed the cords, but left the pegs.Pits dug up rather quickly - workers drilled benzoburom son helped carry earth.Incidentally, the diameter of the holes was about 30 cm, i.e. 5 cm larger than the diameter of asbestos cement pipes.

To columns stood firmly on the bottom of the pits, I poured a layer of gravel and sand, then rammed the filling manual rammer.I produce it himself, pinned perpendicular to the long birch logs-bar handle.The principle is simple - sleep gravel, he took a log down into the pit, and he knocked several times.

for columns Cement son and kneaded in a small electric mixer.I fall asleep cement, sand, crushed stone a little, stirred and poured into water.The posts were filled by all the rules.First, the pipe fell into the pit, then it was poured the first layer of mortar.We lifted the Tube to the glass part of the solution to the bottom of the pit, and then lowered it, and even then leveled layers of 20-30 cm poured up to the top.Each layer had to condense, using all the same timber with the bar.Fortunately logs diameter was smaller than the diameter of pipes.In order not to stain the poles, concrete poured through a narrow chute and a plastic funnel.It turned out quite neatly.After pouring in the concrete reinforcement bars we hammered (with threaded stud).The top edge of the left little stick over the concrete to further attach the sill beams.At least the sand was filled in the space between the walls of the wells and pipes.At that the construction work has been temporarily completed.

Two days later, as the rest, I started a foundation for the furnace.Cut the sheet of chipboard into 5 parts - 4 for shuttering walls and one for the bottom.The largest leaf tried on support posts, and then went to drill holes in it under the pin, and simultaneously nailed nails bumpers.Received a box with holes in the studs I planted, prepared nuts, washers and leveling sheet level, slowly tightened fasteners.Bottom propped shuttering boards.

to the foundation under the stove has turned out stronger, I made the reinforcement cage.Found welded mesh, cut two pieces about the size of the formwork and welded pieces of wire so that the frame has turned bulky.Look at the diagram there is shown how rods are located.Of course, ideally not use welded wire mesh, and bind yourself some soft wire armaturiny.This connection is more ductile and almost never breaks.

The shuttering laid with poured concrete reinforcement cage, mixed with a portion of small gravel.To tell there is nothing special - filled, air bubbles expelled wire, stamped, cover with foil and left to harden.This process is long, it takes a whole month.Wait for my son and I did not and decided to do in this time frame baths, roof and some related work.

Before you start to lay the beam, I planted a sewer pipe between the pillars and the water supply, so you do not have to creep under the joists.

Bottom rail and rough floors

Bottom rail - this is the first layer of beams laid on the pillars of the foundation.Bruce I took a well-dried, 15 x 15 cm and treated with antiseptic "Senezh".Humidity in the bath is quite high, wood not impregnated simply begin to rot.

connecting bars I by the "paw".For clarity, I drew a diagram with dimensions.The paper used a hacksaw and grinders.First, I cut down all ends, then spread out the beam in the meadow in front of bath and checked the connections.

While I worked on this son was putting on a foundation waterproofing - daubed top of the pillars mastic asphalt and paste on her pieces of roofing material.

to put the harness on the foundation, had to drill holes sticking out of concrete studs.Bruce was laid directly on the poles, making the markup in place, after which I made Porting.Mark the first two frames, laid them on the supports, to check a square, the angle was exactly 90 degrees, only then tighten the screws, fasteners.By the way, at intermediate poles hole we drill, the valve cut down, so as not to interfere.Bar nuts tightened only at the corners of the bath.Two timber segment was put in a place where there will be room dividers.

the turn laying the floor lag.In order to once again not to suffer with cutting bars, I bought a plate with holes for anchors.

boards took section 150 x 50, sawed and sealed with exposed beams, using the mentioned fasteners, screws and screwdriver.

Top lag I sewed sheets of OSB.The result was quite a good subfloor.

frame assembly and truss

Build walls

walls we collected from the same board section 150 x 50 mm, fastening them together usingmetal perforated plates (parts).In theory, the distance between the posts should be between 60 cm to one meter, we have so happened, except that above and below the window lintels board established a little closer to each other.

assembly we have produced on the lawn near the bath in two days, so it was much easier to make measurements, cut and fit.Installation is very simple - the first two are held together by two upper and lower boards, then going to the rectangles of windows, and then add the missing jumpers and support.In addition, we have strengthened the design of the walls the struts.Also, in order to strengthen the structure, the three windows and a door lintels we attached with screws (taken galvanized, 45 mm) for another board (note the photo).

Walls installed in turn, starting with the front.Alone and together, even very difficult to establish a structure without defects, therefore the assembly produced five of us - me, my son and three assistants.The walls between themselves and with the floor fastened with stainless steel nails 100 mm in length, driving them in two rows every 45-50 cm. Finally, on top of the wall was laid and nailed another series strapping boards.This method of frame construction reminiscent of the children's designer.The walls we build and install in just three days.

Rafters

our roof gable bath with hanging rafters.In total we made 11 farms.The photo shows how we raised the roof.

Trussed rafters made with a slope of 45 degrees and strengthened the two braces.Make one farm and cementing elements of perforated plates, I continued to work, using the first triangle as a template for others.The rafters of the roof of my bath will rest on the upper trim board, attached to the corners of her.Notice the gashes made in those places where the rafters are in contact with the upper rail, and on the ends of the rafters, where I cut the corner for more aesthetic appearance overhangs.

roof trusses, performs the function of the pediment, was reinforced by four vertical bars, and in the middle I nailed two jumpers to further install a ventilation window.

two extreme farms were collected only two boards each.These farms, we fastened the last.The photo shows them holding the bar.Thus the rear of the bath and on the facade, we have created a small shelter.

Installation of metal

bath I decided to cover the Finnish metal tile Pural matt, because of its matte finish more resistant to fading and mechanical damage.

Prior to installation of metal, I lay on the roof waterproofing layer, which gave the thin slats directly to the rafters.Following a slight gap is fastened boards lathing.

In lathing I nailed sheets of metal.Conventional screws are not suitable, so bought a special, colored to match the surface.Metal tile I was putting on the same level, adhering to the following scheme:

• sheet lifted onto the roof with ropes;
• work started with the bottom right corner.First aligned relative to the cornice and attached with special screws, and screwed into them are not up to the end, to be able to fix the position of the sheet;
• second sheet laid with overlap into a single wave, and again fastened to the sheathing screws;
• last page number of consolidated, when laid the second row.

Further work was carried out on the same technology.Top consolidated skate.

immediately, so several times not to go back to the roof battens cut hem and cornices.

Installation of drainage system

Gutter mounted with assistants.I chose metal gutters because they are more durable, but plastic cheaper.Chutes bought 100 mm wide and 75 mm in diameter.The length of the eaves of my bath every 5 meters, the distance from the eaves to the blind area - 2.5 meters.Based on these data, I have gained two pipes 2.2 meters in length, two exhaust funnels suitable for gutters, drain two tribes, 4 caps for gutters.4 more were needed knee to connect the pipe to the funnel.

pipes are fixed to the wall with clamps every 30 cm, so I took 14 clamps and brackets - 10 pieces, I will mount them on the ledge every meter.Yet it took four locks to seal the three-meter chute.

The work began with the markup.He took a ladder, tape measure, marker thread and crawled under the roof.I had to pull the thread so as to fasten the trough sloping 5 mm to 1 m, i.e. a total inclination of 25 mm.

I attached two extreme adjustable bracket to the sheathing (retreated from the edge of 15 cm) and a pulled thread.I checked the bias tape.The remaining fixed the brackets so that they touch the string.Next to the sheathing nailed Cornice strip.

By the way, all this work I was doing before the installation of metal, and immediately was putting gutters were installed when the entire coating.Pipes connected the same when done outside walls of the house.

Chutes joined locks.Is applied to the rubber gasket and sealing of the pipe, leaving a gap of approximately 3 mm between the ends of the abutting elements.This gap is needed to compensate for thermal expansion.